Looking to add a modern twist to your classic ponytail? Backstage at Dion Lee’s AW19 runway show at New York Fashion Week, hairstylist Eugene Souleiman shows us how to recreate the gothic romantic hairstyle.
Traditional, flawless tailoring combined with experimental, influential design… Dion Lee came, saw, conquered and took no prisoners with his exhilarating AW19 collection at this season’s New York Fashion Week.
It was this idea of designing with people in mind, as is true with Lee’s collections, that inspired Eugene: “When it came to creating the hair looks, I didn’t really think about the collection… I thought about the girl who would be wearing those clothes… who the collection was designed for… that was my inspiration.”
Resulting in hairstyles which were tough, cool, and refined all at once – a perfect personification of the strength, spirit and sophistication of today’s Dion Lee woman.
Although the hair gives the appearance of being simple, the techniques that go into them are anything but. “It’s not simple, it’s not quick, it’s not done in haste” says Eugene, “it’s very refined and very specific in the techniques used.”
The hair is pulled back into what looks like a standard low ponytail from the front, but is actually off-centre, and although the hair is pulled into a bun, it is a bun with a ‘twist’. Comb marks give a feel of toughness and masculinity, creating styles that were “tougher… more assertive, slightly aggressive.”
To recreate the Dion Lee “ponytail with a twist” you will need:
• ghd platinum+ styler, $380 | Shop
• ghd air® hairdryer, $265 | Shop
• Wella Professionals EIMI Mystify Me Strong, $27
• Wella Professionals EIMI Root Shoot, $27
• Wella Professionals EIMI Dry Me, $27
Step one: Crafting the look begins with the hair being cleanly split into two sections – one at the top of the head and one at the bottom. The hair from the lower section is then pulled back into a low, slightly left of centre ponytail and completely (and liberally) sprayed with Wella Professionals EIMI Mystify Me Strong to give it a tight appearance.
Step two: Once the lower section of hair has the desired texture, attention is turned to the top section. First, a ghd platinum+ styler is used to smooth the hair – this is essential in giving the ponytail its sleek and tight appearance. A fine tooth comb is pulled back through the hair, from the front to the off-centre point at the back of the head where the sections meet, and the outcome is that of someone running their fingers through their hair.
Step three: Once the top and bottom sections have come together, the ponytail is secured using black elastic, the length of it twisted and then twisted again in an upward direction as if (in Eugene’s words) it “recoils on itself” before it is pinned to the head.
The fact that the hair is supposed to look natural means that it is imperative that it does not look wet in any way; Eugene says, the ghd air® hairdryer was vital when it came to perfecting each style.
Step four: Once the twist was complete, a diffuser was used in conjunction with the ghd air hairdryer to visibly soften the hair.
Step five: The final touches to the look were in the form of headbands: one which is plain and rakes through the hair, emphasising the grooves left by the comb.