Features

Suits 101: The style rules every stylish man needs to know

We ask Working Style creative director Eddie von Dadelszen for a suits lowdown:

Eddie von Dadelszen

What are the style rules for elements such as lapels and double versus single-breasted suits?
Single-breasted suits can be worn for most occasions – work or a party. A peaked lapel is more dramatic than a notch, but a notch is more versatile. A double-breasted jacket should be as neatly tailored as possible with a wide peaked lapel – think Tom Ford. The double vent is distinctive and popular with most designers, they allow for the creation of a very slim and elegant silhouette from the waist through to the bottom of the hips. It’s a trademark of bespoke Savile Row suits.

Explain the process of tailoring a made-to-measure suit.
During the initial consultation, we narrow down the ideal selection of cloth for the wearer and their lifestyle. Then they are fitted into a standard-size jacket and trousers. Over 40 different pattern adjustments can be made to rebalance asymmetries and work with nuances within the individual’s stance or posture. We personalise the suit with styling details such as lapels, vents, button holes and lining. Specialist tailors finish the suit for the second fitting and any aspects that need refining are adjusted for the wearer.

What are the best fabrics for office wear?
Wool suits are best for the corporate environment but if you want to splash out, cashmere/high-twist wool blends are extraordinary to wear. Wool is often referred to by its super quality – Super 100s and beyond – the higher the number, the finer the wool and tighter the weave, making the cloth softer and more luxurious.

One last note on pocket squares.
Whether your man’s style is classic like Harvey Specter’s or colourful like Louis Litt, know that as a rule of thumb, a pocket square and tie should never match. Similar hues that make a subtle reference is the height of sophistication.

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