The dour, drenched start to this year’s fashion week created the perfect mood for NOM*d and their renowned dark, southern aesthetic. They do what they do so well, of course, and this warrants their dedicated following. There’s also something reassuring about the unwavering aesthetic they present, subtly shifting and evolving from season to season. There are also some seemingly some fresh ideas being explored at NOM*d, and it shows too.
Although retaining their classic nods to subversion, the underground and that much talked about “Dunedin look”, this season signalled a noticeable shift towards tailoring, sitting alongside their signature slouchy knitwear, loose dresses, tartan and (always coveted and ALWAYS selling out) screen printed t-shirting. Many of the strongest pieces to come down the runway were refined, twisted offerings of outerwear – fundamentally classic and beautifully rendered as their deep, double breasted fronts tied asymmetrically around the models’ torsos, featuring elegant long vents down the back (proving, as usual, that the best view is usually when you walk away). This was a pleasant surprise, and felt like a step in a more subtly adult direction.
One of the more intriguing fabrics was a stiff, crisp nylon that appeared in parkas and (best of all) several jackets bearing oversized patch pockets. They were sharp in a way that should have been out of step with the rest of the collection, yet somehow it just worked – and quite brilliantly at that. There were softer moments too, in both fabric and sentimentality. Patchwork check cotton appeared several times, mostly wrapped and tied in ways that evoke the functionality and nostalgia of a humble apron. Similarly blush pink knits added a surprisingly sweet moment to several looks, and light gauzy layers floated by.
The show’s styling (always so strong) served to reinforce the brand’s signature, layered and tied in that effortlessly haphazard and inimitable way that they do so well. Although strong and appealing, it also meant sometimes having to pay extra attention to those more special pieces – something that is in no way a bad thing, discovering those particularly pleasant surprises is part of the beauty of a NOM*d show.
Words: Emma Gleason
Photos: Holly Burgess